Cagiva mito 125 for sale here on Ebay UK
Servo & Comp unit taken of the bike OR at bike if CTS-cables with cable pulley taken of the Servo.
Here is a method how to do it:
- connect working CTS-comp unit into servo
- focus onto a connector block coming from CTS-comp that aint plugged into anything atm
- give shortly only a peak like 2 seconds of 12V for CTS-comp by giving:
+ to the Orange-White wire
- to the Black-White wire
*Servo will now do its check up turn and servo will return into zero position after check up.
*If Comp unit is broken servo aint reacting at all but some comp units will broke down such a way that check-up turn is working but the parts aint working during actual riding.
*Servo can also worn out or go broken but usually its the Comp unit unless its model '99-> with 3Amp safety fuse.
*most critical part in servo is the http://upload.wikime...tentiometer.jpg
* sometimes the copper wiring at servos in the motor breaks thx to
vibrations as its kinda thin as human hair..
*at year '99 Cagiva added also outer spring to Servo to back it up while returning into Zero position. same time they added the 3 Amp safety fuse.
Its very critical that Servo will be in its Zero position when check-up turn is done as the servo has position sensor in it, if the servo aint in 0-position and some1 adds CTS-cables into place the Servo and Comp unit are fooked over big time, this causes comp unit/servo to burn as they cant return into 0-postion if wrongly "adjusted" cts-cables are not giving slack.
So avoid like paranoid to alter Servo's 0-position while putting CTS-cables back on. the "adjusting screws" at cts-cables are there only to help put CTS-cables back on and taking of the very small slack from cable cores.
Remember to leave 1mm slack to both cable cores.
if the 0-position is accidently altered, its time to switch power on at least 2 times to let the servo do its Check-up rotation and to return into 0-position. this naturally has to be done without cts-cables attached.
Here is a method how to do it:
- connect working CTS-comp unit into servo
- focus onto a connector block coming from CTS-comp that aint plugged into anything atm
- give shortly only a peak like 2 seconds of 12V for CTS-comp by giving:
+ to the Orange-White wire
- to the Black-White wire
*Servo will now do its check up turn and servo will return into zero position after check up.
*If Comp unit is broken servo aint reacting at all but some comp units will broke down such a way that check-up turn is working but the parts aint working during actual riding.
*Servo can also worn out or go broken but usually its the Comp unit unless its model '99-> with 3Amp safety fuse.
*most critical part in servo is the http://upload.wikime...tentiometer.jpg
* sometimes the copper wiring at servos in the motor breaks thx to
vibrations as its kinda thin as human hair..
*at year '99 Cagiva added also outer spring to Servo to back it up while returning into Zero position. same time they added the 3 Amp safety fuse.
Its very critical that Servo will be in its Zero position when check-up turn is done as the servo has position sensor in it, if the servo aint in 0-position and some1 adds CTS-cables into place the Servo and Comp unit are fooked over big time, this causes comp unit/servo to burn as they cant return into 0-postion if wrongly "adjusted" cts-cables are not giving slack.
So avoid like paranoid to alter Servo's 0-position while putting CTS-cables back on. the "adjusting screws" at cts-cables are there only to help put CTS-cables back on and taking of the very small slack from cable cores.
Remember to leave 1mm slack to both cable cores.
if the 0-position is accidently altered, its time to switch power on at least 2 times to let the servo do its Check-up rotation and to return into 0-position. this naturally has to be done without cts-cables attached.
.......................
some data for CTS-Comp models:
some data for CTS-Comp models:
CM7429 (have to check my notes for rpm)
CM7428 9000rpm
CM7427 7600rpm '2003 Evo2
CM1113 8750 rpm. with models Mito Evo mk1 Lucky '98 &
Kokusan Sp ignition system (have to check my notes for rpm..)
(no white ink code) Mito mk2/racing '93 Lawson Replica's 8000rpm
(no white ink code) C12R '89~91, K7, SC'91~93, W8"lc", N90 Free
Fun, Mito mk1 '90~92 7250rpm
CTS-Comp CM1109 7250rpm SuperCity Ed-01 '91~'95
'98 Evo1 Lucky specialty is CTS-Comp unit that is CM1113, it has
CTS-Comp CM1109 7250rpm SuperCity Ed-01 '91~'95
'98 Evo1 Lucky specialty is CTS-Comp unit that is CM1113, it has
GREY insulation over cables and that CM1113 white ink text in it.
.........................
a jammed CTS-blade, ya can hear the CTS-servo trying to move it,
.........................
a jammed CTS-blade, ya can hear the CTS-servo trying to move it,
this causes safety fuse to blow up or it fry pv cdi
.....................................
.........................
Comp unit being fried depends about how long the bike was ridden while the blade was jammed. the Comp unit can take some hits but not for very long. if you are lucky your comp unit is still working and fully ok.
you can test the Comp unit and servo by following my written route at link i gave earlier.
yes, ya can check that is the cts-blade jammed by taking of 1st the cst-cables from servo or from cable pulley at cylinder side. the cable pulley at cylinder should be moving so easy that a child can also rotate it, it cannot be stiff if its clean enough.
CTS working (at id say Evo2 '05~'07 Ducati Energia Stradale 1st version)
parts at cylinder
.....................................
*If Comp unit is broken servo aint reacting at all but some comp units will broke down such a way that check-up turn is working but the parts aint working during actual riding.
*Servo can also worn out or go broken but usually its the Comp unit unless its model '99-> with 3Amp safety fuse.
*most critical part in servo is the http://upload.wikime...tentiometer.jpg
* sometimes the copper wiring at servos in the motor breaks thx to vibrations as its kinda thin as human hair..
*at year '99 Cagiva added also outer spring to Servo to back it up while returning into Zero position. same time they added the 3 Amp safety fuse.
its very critical that Servo will be in its Zero position when check-up turn is done as the servo has position sensor in it, if the servo aint in 0-position and some1 adds CTS-cables into place the Servo and Comp unit are fooked over big time, this causes comp unit/servo to burn as they cant return into 0-postion if wrongly "adjusted" cts-cables are not giving slack.
so avoid like paranoid to alter Servo's 0-position while putting CTS-cables back on. the "adjusting screws" at cts-cables are there only to help put CTS-cables back on and taking of the very small slack from cable cores.
remember to leave 1mm slack to both cable cores.
if the 0-position is accidently altered, its time to switch power on at least 2 times to let the servo do its Check-up rotation and to return into 0-position. this naturally has to be done without cts-cables attached.
.......................
some data for CTS-Comp models:
CM7429 (have to check my notes for rpm)
CM7428 9000rpm
CM7427 7600rpm '2003 Evo2
CM1113 8750 rpm. with models Mito Evo mk1 Lucky '98 & Kokusan Sp ignition system (have to check my notes for rpm..)
(no white ink code) Mito mk2/racing '93 Lawson Replica's 8000rpm
(no white ink code) C12R '89~91, K7, SC'91~93, W8"lc", N90 Free Fun, Mito mk1 '90~92 7250rpm
CTS-Comp CM1109 7250rpm SuperCity Ed-01 '91~'95
'98 Evo1 Lucky specialty is CTS-Comp unit that is CM1113, it has GREY insulation over cables and that CM1113 white ink text in it.
.........................
a jammed CTS-blade, ya can hear the CTS-servo trying to move it, this causes safety fuse to blow up or it fry pv cdi
Comp unit being fried depends about how long the bike was ridden while the blade was jammed. the Comp unit can take some hits but not for very long. if you are lucky your comp unit is still working and fully ok.
ya can thest the Comp unit and servo by following my written route at link i gave earlier.
yes, ya can check that is the cts-blade jammed by taking of 1st the cst-cables from servo or from cable pulley at cylinder side. the cable pulley at cylinder should be moving so easy that lill child can also rotate it, it cannot be stiff if its clean enough.
CTS working (at id say Evo2 '05~'07 Ducati Energia Stradale 1st version)
.....................................
all CTS-plates (Sp's not included) have got 3 identification things what comes to re-assembly:
1. smaller chamfer facing towards piston / bigger-wider chamfer facing towards exhaust port tunnel
2. at the end of CTS-plate shaft is stamped mark, its facing towards up-petrol tank (at early 90s this was vice versa compered to modern plates..)
3. CTS-plate shaft is machined non symmetric, which has an effect into attaching 19mm long small pin trough CTS-plate shaft
Those were the 3 ways to know how to put it.
i have personally 4 different model from std CTS-blades, ive seen also 5th model and i have 1 CRC cts-blade and 1 Polini CTS-blade.
......................................
CTS-balde & Piston Clearence:
i have written info about tuning the clearance between cts-blade and piston up to max from original 0,7~0,8mm ill search it, here:
Remember to put/add a thin "film" layer of oil/heat resistant "hylomar" or same kinda sealant between CTS-plate casings (like explained in w.s.m's)
and naturally a new paper gasket between CTS bottom casing and Cylinder surface is gd.
you can tune up the CTS-plate and piston clearence up to 1mm~1,2mm from std 0,7~0,8mm.
1mm is safer than 0,7~0,8mm. after about 1,2+mm its careful job..... (....CTS-plate is already fully open but CTS-actuator still wants to open it up more)
................................
inspecting and testing CTS-servo, some pointers:
you could take of the magnet dome from servo and check if the copper loom is ok and does not have a cut in it.
give a very short stint like 1 second of 6~12V (rather like 9V) ONLY to the cts-servo for wires black and red. after 1st "spin" polarity vice versa. During this Test CTS-Comp has to be taken of from the CTS-servo !!! or you can fry the Comp...
giving it voltage too long time making it to spring will fook up position sensor as it does not like to turn around 360 degrees.
cts-servo is easy to change BUT YOU MUST FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS that i have given earlier....0-position... issue
0-position is related directly into "position sensor" which changes the polarity for cts-servo making servo to "spin" clockwise and anti clockwise.
the "position sensor" has some other real name for it which i cant remember atm in english language.
there is a limited amount how much can servo "spin" to clock or anti clockwise and that is regulated by "position sensor", the 0-position is its home base where it starts always to do the work.
cagiva's CTS is not "self calibrating system" when cts-cables are fully connected and if it happens that 0-position is wrong. it "calibrates" correctly only when the thing is 1st done what ya just learned.
servo will search the 0-position that is totally correct when cts-cables are not placed in and at this point ya turn power ON twice at least on & off, as some people adjust the cables altering the 0-position at same time making the position sensor not to reach its home base..
"Position Sensor is the 5 Kohm Potentiometric which works as a polarity switch for + & -.
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here is 1 more sample piccy about parts at cylinder, notice the mark at the end of cts-blade shat pointi up (this was vice versa during early 90s)
http://www.servimg.c...?i=4&u=11010260
when putting parts back 2gether, the spring at the shaft needs to be winded to get tension, usually by time the Spring gets a mark onto it, when the marks lineup you know you have winded it up enough but the Windup is like 1 complete turn.
.....................................
impulse from CDI to CTS-Comp and some upgrades by Cagiva:
so if its servo that is broken its got to be the Potentiometric aka "position sensor" inside it or the copper looming around motor.
the cdi's white-blue wire gives the ignition timing pulse to CTS-comp so that Comp knows when to react depending about Comp model CMxxxx. so there is no timing pulse when engine is not running/idling EXEPT apparently when you turn ignition key ON. im not 100% sure about this..
try and fiddle the white-nlue wire when ya turn ignition key ON, as at older CDi's the insulation was hard rock solid "plastic" that dint make gd for vibrating white-blue wire.
later the insulation was upgraded into soft compound.
THIS INFORMATION WRITTEN BY CAGIVA4EVER
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