Monday, 23 January 2017

Cagiva Mito Engine rebuild parts

Just thought id do a post on the parts i use to rebuild engines

If you USA try here for parts 

Gasket sets i always use these NE brand ones excellent quality never had a failure

You can Buy full gasket sets here      or      Top end only here 

As for bearings i try to use Koyo or SKF bearings 

Buy Main crank bearing here         or          full engine bearing kits here                                                              

Athena Seals New oil seals need to be fitted on every rebuild                                                                           

Buy Athena Engine seals from here                                                                                      

I always use Vertex pistons only ever had good results with them                                                    


Buy vertex pistons from here                                                                                             

I sometime use Mitaka barrels 2 i had good success with them so cant fault them obviously OEM is better .

Friday, 9 December 2016

Cagiva mito 125 7 speed gearbox 5P engine Gears ( difference )

I get asked a lot about the differences between the 7 speed and 6 speed bikes .

Usually the 7 speeds are fitted alonmg with better barrels carbs and exhausts so yeah there is a big difference , i have tried and ordinary 6 speed with a 7 speed and yes it was also fun .

Im not the sort to obsess about power and gear ratios etc but yes 7 speeds are fun but then again so are 6 speeds .

Here is how you tell if you engine is 6 or 7 speed and the mechanical differences .

As you can see in above picture ( not very clearly )  the engine code stamp 5P this tells me it is the 
7 speed engine .

under this stamp is the engine number 

Mine begins with BG97   which tells me its a 1997 model so a cagiva mito evo 1 1997 .

That s how you tell year and if its 7 speed from the outside of engine .

Here are the internal differences 

The engine cases are thje same as in a six speed Cagiva just shave off a bit of metal to be able to squeeze in the extra gear .

close up picture of machined casing 

The only other differences are in the gearbox itself obviously 7 gears on input - output shafts 

Cagiva also added an extra selector fork which is needed to select the gear , i presume the shafts are the same lengths as before to avoids case changes and i also assume the selector drum would be different ill find out when i get a 6 speed in bits to compare .


Wednesday, 16 November 2016

Cagiva Mito blog flat battery jump start battery boost pack ( portable , small )

Just bought an excellent and portable battery jump back , its real small so easy to take with you on a trip and it goes under tank just about to give you room to jump start the bike .

It also jumped my BMW car too so its very powerful .

Connect jump leads to the machine and first connect Positive cable to battery  + terminal then connect the negative to the - terminal , the machine will then self test to see if everything is safe to release power and will power up the green light .

its now providing power to boost the battery .

see video below of this in operation 

Wednesday, 28 September 2016

Cagiva Mito MK1 for sale looks to be restored quite nicely .

You can view it live on Auction here 

Hi this is my 1991 mito mk full 33 bhp;Restored mechanically perfect cagiva mito mk 1
 in very good clean condition ,Engine has had new main crank bearings (big ends).
New waterpump o ring seal New gasket full kit used.New crank seals
Powervalve unit serviced and cleaned ,de carboned.
New piston kit includes c clips gudgeon pin and little ends and of course the piston and 2 piston rings .
New cylinder barrel
Upto full compresdsion just like when she left the cagiva factory in 1991 .
Clutch works perfect and has a new cable too.
New throttle cable ,new battery new spark plug new air filter k and n upgrade .
New transmission fluid and new coolant and rad flushed.
Body,all prepped and painted in ducati rosso red looks truly amazing in the sun!
New sp decals,carbon tank lock sticker looks nice too!
Mirrors painted in metalic panther black and really set off the bike.
New indicators all original too!
Exhaust and prepped and painted the front chamber.
Pollished silencer all stock system.
Painted callipers after servicing them .
New pads all round and new dot 4 fluid bled through.
forks painted wheels plastic coated in bright white ad look like new ,wheel bearings all round .
tyres are as new too!
Carbon fuel lock cap sticker.
Better igniton barrel fitted with a brand new key and 2 keys for the fuel lock cap.
Swingarm bushes replaced and spindles all round re greased and painted .
Suspention units overhauled and are good!
Better starter motor fitted and starter motor bendex ,a common issue on these motors all sorted!
Carb stripped and cleaned out and set correctly for the new head and piston kit.
 Long m.o.t 12 months from the 24th sept 16 passed with ease no adviseries at all.
The v5c logbook is in my name . .

Saturday, 30 April 2016

Cagiva mito 125 motorcycle battery maintenance

Cagiva mito 125 motorbike battery maintenance .

First i like to test the battery on the bike .

Test at the battery posts and at the battery Positive and negative wire terminals to ensure you have good voltage at both and to ensure clean terminals .

then test again with engine running .

You should over 12v and them close to 14v at 6000 revs .

Battery , make sure its fully charged remove from bike and recharge dont just guess ,
and whilst doing this clean up the battery terminals and the negative and positive wiring terminals .

If you have a voltage meter you can do some basic tests.
When the engine has been off for at least 1-2 hours with ignition key turned off,
100% Charged 12.60 to 12.8v
75% Charged 12.4v
50% Charged 12.1v
25% Charged 11.9v

0% Charged less than 11.8v

I always clean the terminals of a battery on routine Maintenence too , and i always test ground wires for continuity but its best to test earths with a 4 amp test light to ensure adequate current flow .

sorry for photo best i could find but you get the idea test your grounds for minimum 4 amp current flow .

I remove battery and clean the outside , baking power is recommended to neutralise the acid and any spilled acid under the battery to stop corrosion .

Now test battery and top up electrolyte level 

remove all the top caps for each cell 

and check the level indicator on the front of the battery 
all mine were low so had to top them all up .

Use only Deionized water - as the level falls the acid becomes more
powerfull so you are adding water to dilute the acid to its correct strength 

so dont add acid .

I would now charge the battery to full capacity im not going to as i dont have time during this 
post but will later .

After charging or before you can test each individual cell to see if you have a faulty cell 

test between positive and first closest cell 

and then between cells 

You are looking for around 2v per cell to indicate excellent battery , id ignore my results 
as one its not an excellent battery to i just topped up the water levels and there it was totally
flat but you get the idea .


Last thing to check is a load test connect the battery back into the bike
and whist turning the bike over so on heavy electrical load test the voltage at the battery 

if you read less than 11v you have duff battery 11v and over indicates a good useable battery .

If in doubt just replace the battery , you can buy them quite cheap